Lenin peak

THE DATE OF START DEPENDS ON THE FLIGHT MOSCOW-OSH, that is not daily. IТll fix it until the end of April. Let me know what day do you prefer. It will take 22 days.



The route itself is easy. But there are some cravers †in glacier, often snowfalls, low temperature and high altitude. Besides there are no snow cats and rescue teams except ourselves. What were the main problems for the members in the expedition PEAK LENIN 2006?

1. The main problem for most members Ц Psychological tiredness. You must be ready to spend 14-17 days away from the civilization. It will be BC with all the facilities Ц Kitchen, cooker, enormous food, hot water, big tents and so on. If you can not REST in BC Ц this is problem that is bigger than even bad acclimatization.
2. Low physical condition. Nobody will improve your own fitness. And nobody will bring you to the top. So spend more time training and you will enjoy the climb instead of being empty of emotions.
3. Moving all in one group. I will split the group by speed for sure!
4. Stomach diseases and catching a cold. This is just because of not enough care of yourself and bad water. Water will be better this time and the medicine is always enough, but only you can feel your body.
5. Some of the problems of ANY expedition in Asia are caused by local view on life. They are not very responsible. They can promise anything and forget this very soon. This cuts a lot of nerves of the organizer of the expedition.

Why so late? My friend, a famous Russian climber Nikolay Totmyanin (Everest without oxygen, may 2003 and May 2006 (without either) and Golden ice axe for North face of Jannu in 2004) was there 9 times and told me that it is a bit colder, but the weather is much more stable. You can put on extra fleece jacket, but you can not do anything about the weather. In 2006 several expeditions arrived after us and most of them summited. Most expeditions in July and first decade of August failed. I had some friends there. As for the question Уwhy with you?Ф (though those of you who climbed Elbrus with me will never ask this) Ц I can recommend you to look through Internet who offers tour on Lenin and after that check if they were there last season. I know at list half dozen companies who has Lenin on the webpage, but never comeЕЕ.

This is time-table.

This is graphs of our acclimatization and the Climb.

WHAT IS INCLUDED?

Also included:

1. Apothecia
2. All kind of help and consultation of guides.
3. All necessary papers
4. All kitchen stuff except personal cup, spoon and plate.
5. Ropes

There will be cooker in the BC, who will provide you with hot water and will make food. In high camps you have to cook by yourself. You have to wash your cup, spoon and plate by yourself to avoid circumstances of bad washing.
In Osh all the food is included, all the drinks are NOT included.

Not included:

1. Tips
2. Horses for private luggage
3. Porters.
4. Everything that is not mentioned in program.
5. drinks

May be I missed anything. IТll be glad to accept your comments, wishes and questions.

Equipment list

• Be prepared for temperatures between -30C - 0C with a chance of snow.
• Test your equipment before you come to climb peak Lenin, making sure your crampons fit your boots and that you can put them on and take them off quickly and efficiently.
• Test your clothing systems and determine what works best for you. There is no one right way to dress, but layering is essential. Make sure your clothes fit and that they are roomy enough for strenuous activity.
• You must remember that equipment influence on your success much!

1. Documents
1. Valid passport
2. Airline tickets
3. Voucher (a form, which was sent to you for obtaining visa).†
2. Clothing
1. MITTENS!!! Warm and big!!! It is better to have something else (may be lighter) in case of loosing mitts in wind. Remember Ц this is success of your climb.
2. Dawn jacket. The thicker - the better.
3. Fleece trousers
4. Thermo underwear, full suit
5. Fleece jackets
6. Full Gore Tex suit
7. Plenty of† good warm socks
8. Hiking boots
9. Jogging shoes
10. Warm hat, wool or fleece
11. Bandana
12. Wool or fleece gloves
13. Thin liner gloves
14. Balaclava
15. Snow gaiters, knee-length
16. I donТt speak about t-shirts and so on. You are all know, I hope.
17. some stuff for cities.
3. Boots Ц it must be double (plastic or leather). In addition, it is better to have third overboot. From plastics are recommended Koflach, Scarpa. Not recommended Ц Trezeta and Asolo. There must be enough space for moving your toes even if you use two thick socks. I recommend having boots two sizes bigger than your feet are. —ool feet could force you to turn back, or result in frostbite.
4. Camp equipment.
1. Tents. One for two people.
2. Sleeping bag rated to -20 ∞C
3. Some crockery for melting snow and cooking in higher camps.
4. Mattress
5. Let me know, please, if anybody has multifuel burners.
6. Let me know, please, if anybody has snow shovel
7. Soap and other stuff for personal hygiene
5. Mountaineering Gear
1. Crampons
2. Ice axe
3. Headlamp with batteries for 50 (fifty) hours shining.
4. Backpack
5. Thermos!!!(1 liter minimum)†
6. Ski/treking poles
7. Harness + 2 carabines + 3 meters of 6mm rope.
8. Pocket knife or multi-tool
9. Sunglasses or goggles (two pairs)
6. Travel Accessories
1. Spare contact lenses or glasses
2. Sunblock and lip balm
3. Toiletry kit
4. Small, quick-dry towel
5. Hand sanitizer gel and Handi-wipes
6. Plastic bowl, cup and spoon
7. Personal first-aid kit. Any prescription or over the counter medications used regularly (these will not be available in the BC)
8. ALARM
9. Adapter for any electrical appliances. The 220V current in Russian outlets will ruin Western 110V appliances. Besides the size of† wall outlet in Europe and Russia/Kyrgyzstan are different
10. Knee supports
11. Camera, film and spare batteries
12. Vitamin supplements

Trainings.

There are different points of view, but running and swimming are the best. Besides, if you run, you must make 60-70% of training long running and 30-40% short speedy running. Gym is nothing in my point of view. Bicycle is good. If you want to discuss this more, mail me. We will have good acclimatization, so you will not suffer as much as you did on Elbrus. Being ready to the altitude 4000 will be very useful to avoid problems. For this reason some trekking until 3000 and may be night there 1-2 weeks before the expedition will be very well. This year showed that exercises before the expedition influence very-very much on the condition.

If you want to join, please fill both forms below. Attach any photo of your face, please.

Thanks beforehand.
You can discuss everything you wish here /gb
You can also find some photos on my webpage.
Sergei Baranov, the Mountain Guide
home 8(861)2557663,
mobile +79064333557
ICQ 311396305
crazy_night@inbox.ru
crazy_night@rambler.ru
www.onedestiny.narod.ru